Tuesday, March 25, 2008
Good bye
After 5 hours the car was finally loaded into the container, fixed, doors closed and sealed. By that time we were already sweating in the heat like a swiss mountain river. We will now drive to the airport and fly back to Europe. Well, there will be a lot of stories to tell, we had a great time, and I know one thing for sure: a part of myself still belongs to Africa. But right now we are tired, dirty, smelly, unshaved and looking forward to meet our family tomorrow in Zurich. Good bye.
Tema harbour
Today we drove to the final stage of our trip: Tema harbour. To ship the car back to Switzerland we had a prearranged deal, including all preparations Of course, nothing was prepared. Hey, it's Africa. After some waiting, some talking and some laughing we were allowed to drive to the container section of the harbour. It was a whole new navigation challenge to find the way between valleys of containers and lorries.
Sunday, March 23, 2008
Cabin
When you spend so may hours in the car, you start to arrange it like a little home. We mounted the computer on a white kitchen plate, so that it held to the dashboard of the passenger seat. We used the computer for navigation and to keep detailed account of spending and gasoil consumption (remember, Thomas was a consultant. Keeping track of expenses lays in his nature). On top of the computer we fixed the ipod (surrounding it with duct tape and attaching it with removable velcro bands). On the back of the computer we fixed some reflective foil, so that it doesn't overheat. The maps and guides lay on the dashboard behind the computer. The devices are loaded by two 12V plugs in the front dashboard. That the plugs don't fall away with vibration we fixed them with an ELVIA business cards (yep, it's multifunctional).
In the middle you see the two water bottles to keep us alive (the soft drinks, the wine and the whiskey are in the fridge behind).
The red fabric in the middle is a Mondial Assistance neckscarf. I did wear it for some time, but later used it to wrap it around my cellphone.... and indeed, the cell phone is still working, while most other electronic devices hat failures at one time or another (overheating for the computer, shut down of the ipod for hours and the autofocus of the camera stopped working a week ago).
In the middle you see the two water bottles to keep us alive (the soft drinks, the wine and the whiskey are in the fridge behind).
The red fabric in the middle is a Mondial Assistance neckscarf. I did wear it for some time, but later used it to wrap it around my cellphone.... and indeed, the cell phone is still working, while most other electronic devices hat failures at one time or another (overheating for the computer, shut down of the ipod for hours and the autofocus of the camera stopped working a week ago).
Cape Coast
Cape Coast was the capital city of the british colonies in West Africa, and it was the main passing point for the slave trade. About 10 million africans were deported to Europe and the Americas, most of them from West Africa. Many of them where held prisoners in the dungeons of this castle, until the ships took them away. A very sad place.
Local food
Thomas is always kind of courageous regarding local food. Yesterday he ate Frufru (a meal with peanuts, chicken, yams, plantains to be eaten with the fingers). Today it was another local dish with palm oil sauce and at least one entire chicken in the sauce (well, we hope it was chicken.... on the street to the west people held up dead rats for sale....)
Saturday, March 22, 2008
Accra
By african standards Accra is a big and rich city. The roads are large, but still to small for the numerous cars (pro memoriam: Ouaga and Bamako were the cities of bicycles and bikes...not enough money for cars). The basic layout of the city hasn't changed in 30 years, so Thomas can still orient himself fairly well.
Thursday, March 20, 2008
Wednesday, March 19, 2008
Taxi driver from New York
We spent the night in Tongo in the courtyard of the local school administrator. He spoke perfect english... Indeed, he worked 7 years as cab driver in New York. So we were in the middle of Africa, sipping a Tenessee Whisky (we bought in a Lebanese shop in Bamakko) and talking to a New York cab driver.... We ended the day with some fried bananas...
The next morning we tried to find the steward from Thomas childhood. We talked to elderly in villages, to police man, to people on the markets, but to no avail. We left the region of Bolgatanga and drove to Tamale. Thomas got some stomach ache, so we decided to stay in an air conditionned hotel.
The next morning we tried to find the steward from Thomas childhood. We talked to elderly in villages, to police man, to people on the markets, but to no avail. We left the region of Bolgatanga and drove to Tamale. Thomas got some stomach ache, so we decided to stay in an air conditionned hotel.
Tuesday, March 18, 2008
Ghana
Today we crossed into Ghana. We will spend the night in Tongo, a village close to Bolgatanga. Thomas will try to find there a familly who used to work in his house in Accra 30 years ago... The main problem: we dont know the name of the father, as Thomas used to call him "Frafra", which is the name of the tribe. Well, I´ll keep you posted on the success of this operation.
Monday, March 17, 2008
Ouagadougou
From the Dogon Land we drove to the border of Burkina Faso. Passed through Ouahigouya (3rd biggest city of Burkina, but merely a big village) and arrived safely in Ouagadougou before night fall.
We are staying at the Hotel Independance, right in the city center. It's a hotel I used to hang around the swimming pool when I was kid. The next day we visited the school I attended (picture above) and then we went and visited some old friends.... Well, it's time for nostalgia.... Smile. The first night we went to bed at 2am. The second night at 6am.... and we decided to stay for a third night. Ouaga is just a great city to hang around, talk, have good diner at the Coq Bleu (run by an austrian guy), laughing, meeting people etc.
We are staying at the Hotel Independance, right in the city center. It's a hotel I used to hang around the swimming pool when I was kid. The next day we visited the school I attended (picture above) and then we went and visited some old friends.... Well, it's time for nostalgia.... Smile. The first night we went to bed at 2am. The second night at 6am.... and we decided to stay for a third night. Ouaga is just a great city to hang around, talk, have good diner at the Coq Bleu (run by an austrian guy), laughing, meeting people etc.
The Dogons
The Dogons fled from islamisation some centuries ago.They used to live in the south-western part of Mali, then moved north to hide in the rocky formations east of Mopti. There they build hide-outs, tombs and food resrves right into the rocks. On the pic you see the village of Thei at the bootom of the rock. About at half height you see the upper village, where the inhabitants used to hide, and where the local shaman lived until his dead four years ago (they are looking for a new one since).
Sunday, March 16, 2008
Ferry too Djenne
On Friday we drove to the North of Mali. Everyrhing is now red from dust and sand. When we have the opportunity to shower, then the water is red. And even after the second shower, the towels become red when rubbing against the skin.
We spend the night at the catholic mission in Segou. Simple rooms (10 Euro the night per person), very clean, very hot and no mosquito net on the windows. So, for the first time since many years I slept under a mosquito net hung above the bed.... Actually fairly romantic...
We spend the night at the catholic mission in Segou. Simple rooms (10 Euro the night per person), very clean, very hot and no mosquito net on the windows. So, for the first time since many years I slept under a mosquito net hung above the bed.... Actually fairly romantic...
Mopti
We briefly visited Mopti, on the Bandi river, then drove to Bandiagara, capital of the Dogon tribes. We spent the night on the parking of a small hotel. While sitting after dinner, a hug grasshopper flew on the table...and bite in my thumb! First time this happened to me... Well, only minor lesion, and to my knowledge they don´t transmit rabis (though Kathrin you may want to check this, big grins...)
Bamako
Yesterday evening (wedenesday) we arrived safely in Bamako, captial of Mali I am not sure, when I will be able to send the postprobably not before entering Burkina Faso.
Now I am sitting in the air conditionned garage (Toyota and Peugeot), while Thomas tries to get some new shock absorbers. On the last kilometers, the car sounded very african.... kind of like having some empty tins jumping around in the enginge compartiment. The left shockabsorber is definitely out of service.
Now I am sitting in the air conditionned garage (Toyota and Peugeot), while Thomas tries to get some new shock absorbers. On the last kilometers, the car sounded very african.... kind of like having some empty tins jumping around in the enginge compartiment. The left shockabsorber is definitely out of service.
African Art
I couldn´t resist and bought some african art (a door and a statue). Thomas showed incrdible patience while I was negotiating. It actually took the whole afternoon. (Andy, our shopping on the souk in Marrakech was a lot easier). And then we ha to buy two matreses, so that we could load the stuff on the roof (hey, it´s quite large). I hope well get it safely through the customs and the 3000km ahead.
Ohce the shopping was done we headed north towards Mopti, 600km away. We plan to arrive tomorrow, camping somewhere for the night.
Ohce the shopping was done we headed north towards Mopti, 600km away. We plan to arrive tomorrow, camping somewhere for the night.
Saturday, March 15, 2008
In Mali
We found the border village at 9pm and spent the night at the police station. In the next morning we left for Bamako. The first 170 kilometers on very bad roads took us 6 hours... But we were able to visit some remote villages... And the landscape was incredibly nice. Once we arrived in Bafoule (and after a small detour to bring a women into her village) we were able to speed up, and covered the 360km to Bamako in 4 hours and a half.
Good roads
From Kedougou towards Mali we had some very good roads at the beginning. It seems they are building a road here to connect the two countries. After a couple of kilometers the good road stopped, but we still saw the trees they cut. After another couple of kilometers even this sign of civilisation vanished... There was only a dirt track left, and we had to navigate with the GPS system.
Tuesday, March 11, 2008
National park Niokolo Koba
We arrived safely in the National Park. For those interessed in car mechanics, you me recognize a shock absorber torn out of its fixation. We may have driven too fast. Smile.
The main settlement in the park includes a restaurant, a hotel and even a swimming pool (we didn't use it....). There was even air conditioning in the rooms. Unfortunately the truck with the gaz oil for the electric generator didn't arrive. So, no electricity, no air conditioning.... until Thomas offered 60 liters of gazoil from our own jerrycans. It was gasoil we bought in Mauritania.... And not very good quality, so the electricity nearly failed a couple of time during the dinner. By the way, we had a very pleasant dinner with two german women, who live in the settlement to observe the monkeys. They get up at six in the morning to follow the monkey tribes by foot during six hours a day with 40 degress in the shadow.... This is though research. They work for the "Deutsche Primatenzentrum".
We had another shower, this time with water from the Gambie... I smoked a cigar, Thomas drank a beer (the local brand called "Gazelle"). Thomas went to bed early, he had to get up at sun light, to weld the shock absorber with the mechanic of the settlement.
The main settlement in the park includes a restaurant, a hotel and even a swimming pool (we didn't use it....). There was even air conditioning in the rooms. Unfortunately the truck with the gaz oil for the electric generator didn't arrive. So, no electricity, no air conditioning.... until Thomas offered 60 liters of gazoil from our own jerrycans. It was gasoil we bought in Mauritania.... And not very good quality, so the electricity nearly failed a couple of time during the dinner. By the way, we had a very pleasant dinner with two german women, who live in the settlement to observe the monkeys. They get up at six in the morning to follow the monkey tribes by foot during six hours a day with 40 degress in the shadow.... This is though research. They work for the "Deutsche Primatenzentrum".
We had another shower, this time with water from the Gambie... I smoked a cigar, Thomas drank a beer (the local brand called "Gazelle"). Thomas went to bed early, he had to get up at sun light, to weld the shock absorber with the mechanic of the settlement.
Monday, March 10, 2008
Heading East
We will head eastwards and plan to cross into Mali from Kedougou after tomorrow. So we may not be able to update the blog the next days....
By the way so far everything went very well...we only lost the trash can...someone stole it last night, while we camped in the courtyard of the police!
By the way so far everything went very well...we only lost the trash can...someone stole it last night, while we camped in the courtyard of the police!
Saturday, March 8, 2008
Gambia
We have some advance on our schedule. So we are heading for Gambia. We will try to get the Visa at Farafenni... Hopefully it will work.
Friday, March 7, 2008
Traffic Jam
We drove into Dakar. It took is at least two hours in the traffic jams. Dakar is built on an island. 2 Millions inhabitants, only one access road, and a every couple of kilometers an accident or broke down car. We arrived at the center, only to learn that no hotel is available.... There is a summit of islamic countries... So we drove out of the city again... Another three hours of traffic jams.... Now we are on the way to MBour, roughly sixty kilometers south of Dakar.... Not sure if we'll take a hotel or just stop somewhere and camp.
St. Louis
St. Louis is an incredible city, right on the delta of the Senegal river. It is a colonial city with a lot charme. Some old french houses, entirley built on an island. Another place where I could imagine living. I just have to convince the family, and Mondial Assistance to open a branch there...
By this picture doesn't show the nice part of St. Louis. Unfortunately I forgot to make a picture with the phone camera, which is the only way to post it.
Repeated entries in the blog
I made a new discovery. When the sending of an email is interrupted, then the transmitted parts are still posted. That is why there are repeats... Furthermore the post do not always appear in the intended order. Well, I am sure, you will get the sense of it anyway.
By the way, Phillip, if you have a spare minute, may be you can delete the double or triple posts.... and I owe you a second bottle.
On the photo above you see the two guides who helped us out of the wetlands.
Sand
So we turned around, driving back against the mounting tide... At the village we saw indeed some car traces leaving the beach. They were certainly not older than a couple of days.... Unfortunately there was a deep sand bank of roughly 200 meters.... But no other way. So we drove through and got stick after the first 50 meters. Fortunately there were kids around and they helped us to digging out the car. After the forth time, and after letting some air out of the tires we were through.
Driving back
We now had to go back to offical custom at Diama. According to our GPS it was only 5km away. So we crossed a nice village (see pic) and drove on. Unfortunately there were wetlands behind the beach.... And we drove around for one hour without finding a reasonable road. Finally we stopped in a village and asked for a guide. After some negotiation we loaded two guys into the car and drove on. They guided us through a beautiful region which happens to be a national park.... It took us another one hour and half on very bad road to reach the customs. We had to drive 25km around the wetlands.... We left the guides... And they walked back to the villagm only three kilometers and some pirogues crossing away. Well, we have a good car, but unfortunately it can not swim. We crossed the check point into Senegal without further problems and arrived safely in St. Louis at 22:00.
Smuglers?
Things started to become complicated later in the day. The driveable path between see and sand became smaller and smaller.... And no fishing village ahead, nor behind us. So, we turned around....and after just a couple of minutes we came across two other cars heading south. We turned again and squeezed between them... They were local, packed cars. For sure they know where to go! Both drivers gesticulated with their hands, indicating us to turn around, and not to follow them.... But then where to go? So we followed them anyway. After a couple of kilometers they stopped. We had a brief talk again with them... But they didn't talk french, so communication was complicated. Anyway an old man, passenger of one of the car, convinced the driver to let us follow him.... So we drove ahead. After a couple of kilometers - we were only 6km north of St. Louis - a police man jumped on the beach and stopped us.... Well, we were the only one to stop. The other car drove away. The policeman explained us, that we cannot go further, and that we have to drive back to the next fishing village, and leave the beach there. Our conclusion: eiter the other cars were smugglers or the policeman didn't treat foreigners the same way as locals, or both of the above.....
Driving back
We now had to go back to offical custom at Diama. According to our GPS it was only 5km away. So we crossed a nice village (see pic) and drove on. Unfortunately there were wetlands behind the beach.... And we drove around for one hour without finding a reasonable road. Finally we stopped in a village and asked for a guide. After some negotiation we loaded two guys into the car and drove on. They guided us through a beautiful region which happens to be a national park.... It took us another one hour and half on very bad road to reach the customs. We had to drive 25km around the wetlands.... We left the guides... And they walked back to the villagm only three kilometers and some pirogues crossing away. Well, we have a good car, but unfortunately it can not swim. We crossed the check point into Senegal without further problems and arrived safely in St. Louis at 22:00.
Driving back
We now had to go back to offical custom at Diama. According to our GPS it was only 5km away. So we crossed a nice village (see pic) and drove on. Unfortunately there were wetlands behind the beach.... And we drove around for one hour without finding a reasonable road. Finally we stopped in a village and asked for a guide. After some negotiation we loaded two guys into the car and drove on. They guided us through a beautiful region which happens to be a national park.... It took us another one hour and half on very bad road to reach the customs. We had to drive 25km around the wetlands.... We left the guides... And they walked back to the villagm only three kilometers and some pirogues crossing away. Well, we have a good car, but unfortunately it can not swim. We crossed the check point into Senegal without further problems and arrived safely in St. Louis at 22:00.
Driving on the beach
Driving on the beach is an incredible feeling. There is a small band of wet dark brown sand... That is where the sand is hard. On the right it´s to wet and you sink in. On the right it´s to dry, you sink in too (happened to us once....so, showel, showel..). A guy on the beach told us the rudiments of driving in these conditions: always stop the car in a right angle to the sea, always stop the engine when parking as the vibration will make the car sink in etc....
With time Thomas got the rythm of the waves and we drove at roughly 80 kmh for 125 kilometers. There where tausends of crabs...and hundreds of sea gulls and pelicans flying off when we approached.... And no other car, as far as you can see.
With time Thomas got the rythm of the waves and we drove at roughly 80 kmh for 125 kilometers. There where tausends of crabs...and hundreds of sea gulls and pelicans flying off when we approached.... And no other car, as far as you can see.
Beach
We heard from a policeman, that it would be possible to drive to Senegal on the beach. Wow. We decided to go for it. After some heavy searching and driving west on wrong dirt tracks we found the way to a fishing village on the beach. There was a school and the headmaster had a table indicating the tides, i.e. When the sea will be low (so we can drive) and when it will be high (you don´t want to be on the beach with a car at this time). We waited about an hour an, Thomas on the weel we drove onto the beach.
Server problems
There haven´t been new posts on this blog for a couple of days for two reason: first there was no data transmission possible from Mauritania, second the server was full. The issues should now be resolved... First we are in Senegal. Second I purchased some additional Mbytes....
Wednesday, March 5, 2008
Nomansland
The pic show the nomansland between Morocco and Mauritania.... Just stay on the road, there are plenty of land mines on both sides. All together it took us 2.5 hours to pass the frontier. The officers were nice and pleasant, we even drank a cup of tea with them.
Driving south the landscape became drier and drier, until even the bushes disapeared, and we saw some very nice sand dunes...
The day was not without adventure. My Ipod stopped working... Still 6'000 kilometers to go, and no music... Fortunately we were able to reboot the device a couple of hours later. It probably overheated. Actually we had a similar problem with the GPS-computer. But after fixing some aluminium foil on the top, the issue was solved.
The road in Mauritania is even better than in Morroco. We were able to drive fast and far. In the evening we planned to stay on the shore of the sea in a natural reserve. Well, we discovered, that outside the roads the terrain can be pretty tough. We had to dig the car out of the sand... Fortunately we had good sand plates... And some shoveling is always good for the muscles.... After 30 minutes we were back on the mainroad. We were not discouraged, and tried another way, but had to give up, when we landed in an unknown fishing village. It was already night, so we decided to push to Nouakchott.... And here we are... In a Hotel (ehhh, we will be able to shower again). We are now a couple of days ahead of schedule (we didn't expect the roads to be that good). So, we are extending our tour in Senegal and will drive all the way to Dakkar... We will keep you updated.
Driving south the landscape became drier and drier, until even the bushes disapeared, and we saw some very nice sand dunes...
The day was not without adventure. My Ipod stopped working... Still 6'000 kilometers to go, and no music... Fortunately we were able to reboot the device a couple of hours later. It probably overheated. Actually we had a similar problem with the GPS-computer. But after fixing some aluminium foil on the top, the issue was solved.
The road in Mauritania is even better than in Morroco. We were able to drive fast and far. In the evening we planned to stay on the shore of the sea in a natural reserve. Well, we discovered, that outside the roads the terrain can be pretty tough. We had to dig the car out of the sand... Fortunately we had good sand plates... And some shoveling is always good for the muscles.... After 30 minutes we were back on the mainroad. We were not discouraged, and tried another way, but had to give up, when we landed in an unknown fishing village. It was already night, so we decided to push to Nouakchott.... And here we are... In a Hotel (ehhh, we will be able to shower again). We are now a couple of days ahead of schedule (we didn't expect the roads to be that good). So, we are extending our tour in Senegal and will drive all the way to Dakkar... We will keep you updated.
Tuesday, March 4, 2008
Boujdour
Today we made 750km. We had our first escape on dirty roads and sand.... but just for fun. The regular road is still very good and we can drive at 100 kmh. There are now quite some police check points and a highly visible presence of the army. Usually we are asked to show our passports and answer some questions. Once we explain, that we both lived in Africa as kids the mood lightens up, and we are waved through the control with a smile. It also helps, that there are big Swiss crosses sticked on the car.
We arrived in Boujdour fairly late and stopped next to the police station... assuming it to be the safest place in town. The policeman then helped us to a very nice camping... and we were able to take our first shower! For Thomas actually the first shower since Friday. Well, we are looking forward to some clean air in the car this night.
We met a Mauritanian man who used to live in Basel and now drives used cars from Germany to Mali, to sell them there. He makes the trip twelve times a year. Enough to make a living for him and his family. He told us all the secrets to pass the frontiers without too much troubles.... We will see tomorrow if he was right. It will be a long drive. The only check point to Mauritania will close at 17:00... And we are still 600km away.... So, let's go to sleep... after the dishes are washed and stowed... (see pic... Smile).
We arrived in Boujdour fairly late and stopped next to the police station... assuming it to be the safest place in town. The policeman then helped us to a very nice camping... and we were able to take our first shower! For Thomas actually the first shower since Friday. Well, we are looking forward to some clean air in the car this night.
We met a Mauritanian man who used to live in Basel and now drives used cars from Germany to Mali, to sell them there. He makes the trip twelve times a year. Enough to make a living for him and his family. He told us all the secrets to pass the frontiers without too much troubles.... We will see tomorrow if he was right. It will be a long drive. The only check point to Mauritania will close at 17:00... And we are still 600km away.... So, let's go to sleep... after the dishes are washed and stowed... (see pic... Smile).
Monday, March 3, 2008
2nd Day
We made it all the way through Morocco. After the short stop in Marrakech to fix the exhaust we continued towards Agadir and then Tiznit.... Beautiful country side. The most memorable impression of the day is the crazy driving of the Morrocans on the curvy roads through the mountains.... But then, if you are stuck behind an overloaded truck in pitch dark exhaust fumes you may feel this urge to pass it just before the next turn.
By the way Thomas has a great technique to pass the trucks: fall back, gather speed, stick to the bumper and in the right moment steer left and here we go. Anyway, we arrived safely to destination. We are now below a dark sky, full of stars in an empty space about one hour drive from West Sahara. We made some pasta, drank some wine and are wondering when we will be able to take the next shower...
By the way Thomas has a great technique to pass the trucks: fall back, gather speed, stick to the bumper and in the right moment steer left and here we go. Anyway, we arrived safely to destination. We are now below a dark sky, full of stars in an empty space about one hour drive from West Sahara. We made some pasta, drank some wine and are wondering when we will be able to take the next shower...
Sunday, March 2, 2008
First day
Today we crossed the strait of Gibralatar with one of these speedy katamaran ferries. 35 minutes to go from Europe to Africa... In Morrocco we had the first friendly contact with the customs. It took no more than 20 minutes; then another 10 to buy the insurance. Before we left Tanger we paid another customs officer a fee of 25 Euros.... and its only after the facts, that we realized, that it was probably the first rip off... The officer was a fake.
An hour later we had our first repair stop for the car. A piece of the exhaust broke. Small issue. We will have it welded back in the next city.
We stopped somewhere after Rabat and will spend the night in the car. But first we go for a glass of Whisky and a Cigar (both available in our on-board fridge. By the way, Thomas's car is great...
An hour later we had our first repair stop for the car. A piece of the exhaust broke. Small issue. We will have it welded back in the next city.
We stopped somewhere after Rabat and will spend the night in the car. But first we go for a glass of Whisky and a Cigar (both available in our on-board fridge. By the way, Thomas's car is great...



























































































































































